Powersports of Montgomery How to change your oil-motorcycle

Common motorcycle oil change procedure

Oil changes are of the easiest and most effective ways to prolong the life of your bike, and should be performed every six months or 4,000 miles-- whichever comes first. Carbureted bikes are more susceptible to the ravages of storage since fuel can easily contaminate the engine oil, so be extra vigilant with non-fuel injected bikes.

Before you start, make sure you have the following supplies ready:

• An allen wrench or screwdriver (for fairing removal, if necessary.)
• An oil filter wrench, (if your bike has a spin style filter.)
• A new crush washer for your oil drain plug.
• A pair of needle-nose pliers, in case the oil filler cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on.
• A socket set or wrench set.
• Clean rags.
• The proper amount of manufacturer-recommended engine oil.
• A new, OEM oil filter, NOT AFTERMARKET.
• A funnel.

If necessary, remove fairing or bodywork blocking access to the engine. If bodywork surrounds the engine that needs an oil change, you'll have to remove it. Don't worry- this is easier than it sounds. Before draining the engine oil, you'll want to unscrew the oil filler cap (it's usually made of black plastic, with a raised twist tab.) Doing so will allow the oil to drain more quickly.

If the cap is hard to reach or tightly screwed on, you might want to use needle-nose pliers.

Place a pan or bucket under the engine and use a socket wrench to remove the drain plug, which is located on the underside of the oil pan.

Be careful during the last few turns, as the oil-- which might be hot-- will start to spill out.

The crush washer is an aluminum or copper disc designed to deform under pressure, which helps seal the oil drain plug. This part must be replaced after each oil change.

The tip of the drain plug is usually magnetic, in order to attract slivers of metal shed by the engine. While larger pieces are typically found during an engine's break-in period, don't be alarmed when smaller pieces routinely end up stuck onto the edge of the drain plug; just wipe them off with a clean rag.

While the oil continues to drain, unscrew the oil filter using a filter removal tool, if it's a spin on type, which reaches around what might be a tightly screwed in filter.

Once the filter is off, make sure the filter's O-ring (a band of rubber that fits on the tip to ensure a secure seal) came off with the filter, and replace that seal.

Every new oil filter comes with an O-ring; (unless it's a cartridge type) ensure it is seated snugly in the filter and spread a dab of motor oil around its top surface in order to ensure a tight seal.

Once the old oil is completely drained, which should take at least several minutes, use a clean rag to wipe down the drain hole and the mesh filter hole. Screw the oil drain plug (with a new aluminum crush washer)

Use the owner's manual (or markings on the engine) to find out the engine's oil capacity, fill it up with that amount-- minus about one half quart-- by placing a funnel into the oil filler hole.

Screw in the oil filler cap and start up the engine. Let the engine idle for about a minute, then shut it off.

After the engine has idled for about a minute, shut it off and wait another minute or so for the new oil to settle from the cylinder heads into the crankcase.

Make sure the bike is perfectly level; if there is a rear stand attached to the bike, remove it so it rests flat on the ground. If the bike doesn't have a center stand, lift it off its kickstand so it sits up perfectly straight. Check the oil window on the side of the crankcase: if the oil is below the center line, top it off until it's perfectly centered. If it's already at the center, voila-- you've just successfully changed your oil!